Perhaps not surprisingly we found ourselves on a lonely mountain road climbing high above the river plains and coastal bays and eventually coming across life in the bustling and hot sunny town of Filiates. Steering carefully through the busy noon centre of lunching locals, loose dogs and teenagers on mopeds we descended the other side onto the flat lush plains of the Thyamis delta.
After a quick dip in the cooling sea, we tried and failed once again to connect online to update our blog. Instead we found the local policeman (having spotted him buying an ice cream) and asked permission to stay for the night further along the beach, which he was happy to give.
Our only neighbour was a reclusive French motorhomer (in skimpy swimming trunks the entire time we were there) so we kept ourselves to ourselves and enjoyed a sundowner in our chairs on the beach to the lapping of the turquoise waves.
A serene evening became a raucous night as the marina clubs banged out dance music until 6am but as our stop was safe and free we dozed through it until it was time for a cup of tea on the beach.
The border post was busy with queuing beaten up Mercedes cars (the Albanian motor of choice). We did a circuit of the post and then returned the way we had come to find another route. 10 or so miles later we were aware that we had crossed an unmarked border as the road deteriorated to a broken single track which was littered with rock fall and gorse bushes.
We drove on until we dared go no further and turned around amongst some grazing cows as the track petered into a dusty trail. Albania!
Edda was travelling in the expectation of taking three stray cats back to Germany for re-homing. Like Carole she has a supply of dog and cat food and treatments and knows the vets to use for paperwork and pet passports.
On returning to Bertha we realised we’d provided our own foodstuff to the voracious beach mozzies and spent an uncomfortable hot night trying to ignore our many wretched and raging bites.