Perched below and amid high craggy cliffs, Luarca is an exceptionally pretty coastal town initially developed around the prosperous Bonito, or Tuna fish, industry.
Investment since the Middle Ages and later industrialisation means it is a collection of small alleyways of squat fisherman’s houses around the harbour, fishing port and marina, spanning out into wide and graceful squares lined with three and four storey houses decorated with ornate gallerias, protection against the sun and rains.
Bandstands, fountains and sculptures of local characters decorate pretty corners and junctions. A series of stone bridges crosses the shallow and wide Rio Negro which separates the town centre in two and previously powered the mills of a now derelict paper mill and printing press.
Towering over the town the impressively engineered viaduct carries the narrow-gauge Oviedo to Ferrol railway that the now familiar, two carriage yellow and white train, hooted its way through every four hours.
We were parked in the station forecourt, an official site for autocaravanas, and with a bird’s eye view of the terraces of the town and the winding roads, colourful with honeysuckle and bougainvillea below us.
On an evening stroll we headed down to the busy harbourside of restaurants and up the steep and winding road to the headland sporting a very attractive church and cemetery of large, white painted and ornately decorated headstones and mausoleums.
Luarca’s most notable resident is buried there, Severo Ochoa who discovered DNA sequencing. The town remembers him and his beloved wife at the sites of their home and favourite social corners.
Away from the sheltered port and around the headland the hot wind was blowing hard and the narrow road proved, thankfully, to be one way as locals and visitors variously sped past us on hair pin bends skirting the cliffside and barriered only with huge boulders of craggy rock.
Tuna fishing has been the mainstay of Luarca for several centuries and it is known across Spain as the home of Bonito de Luarca. The narrow harbour entrance seemed, to us, challenging to navigate a fishing boat through but the fleets leave daily and unload their catch of tuna and other fish and seafood every afternoon at the harbourside market. It was churlish not to sample the fresh food so we had two separate meals, both delightful, at two separate restaurants during our stay.
Hotel Baltico was all friendliness and efficiency as their ‘menu del dia’ kept a busy churn of diners across Saturday lunchtime.
We were waved in by an old boy, smartly dressed in black trousers and white shirt and clutching a notepad and pen that we didn’t see him use once. He studiously avoided conversation and seemed to seek out private tasks of setting up tables for new diners. He had a proprietary air with the army of young waiters around him and we surmised this was most likely his lifetime’s business and was clearly his happy place.
In Asturias in afternoon heat of high thirties it is still expected that you start a meal with Fabada, a rich stew of white beans cooked in paprika seasoning with small cuts of thick bacon rind and a slice of black pudding.
We gamely tucked in and a passing small bird appreciated the meatiest of cuts. I demolished a plate of grilled sardines, amusing the chap next to me doing the same but with a technique of sucking on the individual fishes and using his fingers to pick out the dainty fish bones. Simon polished off calamares and a cheesecake pudding. The walk back up the hill took notably longer and the traditional siesta was greatly welcome!
Luarca charmed us into staying another night across Sunday. It was a gentle day of meandering amongst families and the many day visitors who had arrived by car for a lunch. The town is now considered a major attraction on the Asturian coast and we perused the windows of Inmobiliaria agents interestedly. There are bargains to be had in the narrow streets of the harbour and particularly so if you are willing to put in the work to renovate and rejuvenate shuttered up and secretive three storey terraced houses. Further up the hillsides, detached properties with parking and gardens carry significant price tags.
The town’s economy is clearly booming and as Spain is now coming out of recession and with an inflationary rate of just 1.5%, the good times feel set to stay. Smart clothing boutiques, regional food delicacies, prestigious wine cellars and jewellery stores jostle with local grocers, fishmongers, bakeries and gift shops for space and trade. During our weekend visit there was a relaxed and contented air amongst the people clearly local in the town and like us, visiting briefly.
A late Sunday lunch harbourside on the terrace of a tiny bodega gave me the chance to enjoy the local grilled tuna steak, while Simon opted for a garlicky dish of seafood and mushrooms.
Smartly dressed couples and families paraded along the promenade as the day’s sailing crowd departed or returned to the marina in sail boats and power boats.
Chill out music and jazz played across the air from within the many bars, drowned out at times by the local impromptu acts performing at a crossroads and plugged into giant set of portable speakers. Everyone simply raised the volume of their happy chatter and carried on…
